Monday, March 31, 2008

Lost Wax Casting Process

Finally I've gotten all my photos together to do a photographic tutorial of lost wax casting.

tools and the beginning of a flower ring

All of my waxes are made individually. I really enjoy working with brown wax the most. I've used hard waxes for somethings when needed, but they aren't my favorites. I've also used some red and pink wax that a friend uses in dental wax work. I've made several of my own tools - very easy to do. my favorites are small needles stuck in the end of a pencil eraser.

close up the the beginning of the flower

These are the beginnings of some of my flower rings and starting to sprue them up.

another one finished

Spruing allows the wax to melt out of the mold and for the metal to get to your piece! not having enough sprues or having them in the proper location can cause your piece to not turn out.

flower ring w/ sprues

After all sprues have been attached its now time to weigh them. This if very important and is often forgotten. The weight of the wax is used to determine how much metal you will need for the casting. Because each metal has a unique specific gravity - you will need to know what number to multiply your wax weight by. For sterling, you can do it two ways - you can multiply by 10.4 and then add a half ozt (troy ounce) or you can simply multiply by 15. I usually do both to be on the safe side and figure something in the middle. For very small or very large, using teh 10.4 and half ozt is usually best.

make sure to weigh them!

After the waxes are weighed, its time to attach them to the sprue base or button.

on the button

Then the flask is lowered over the waxes. It is important that there is at least 1/4" of space between the edge of the flask and the waxes. Now believe me, I've pushed it and nothing bad has happened, but that doesn't mean that it won't. You can have a blow out where the hot molten metal breaks through because there was not enough investment. Same with the top of the flask, if the wax is too close to the top, the metal can break right through. And for vacuum casting, this could be very bad as the metal would most likely damage your casting table.

.. and in the flask

now you are ready to invest!

You need to know the size of your flask and how much investment you will need. For this sweet little flask, I only need a 1/2lb and 3.5oz of water. Measure the water out first and pour it in the rubber mixing bowl.

investment process.... the beginning

Now weigh out the investment. Investment contains silica - so you should wear a dust mask if you don't have exhaust. I got this cute blue scale for very cheap - and its blue! no need to spend big bucks on an expensive scale - it just needs to work.

weigh out investment

Set the timer for 8 minutes. This is the longest that your investment should be disturbed. Once it starts setting up, you don't want to be messing with it. I start the timer and then pour the investment in to the water. Mix for 3 minutes - right when it turns to 5 min, its time to vacuum.

set the timer

Vacuum the investment for 2 min - this is the first step in vacuuming.

vacuum pt. 1 - investment only

Bubbles are good - this is the vacuum getting all the air out of the investment


Now, pour the investment in to the flask. Its a good idea to have tape around the top of your flask to keep the investment from bubbling over and making a huge mess. When pouring, pour down the edge of the flask, not directly on the waxes as it could cause the wax to move slightly and perhaps against another wax or too close to the edge.

vacuum pt 2 prep

Now for the vacuuming of the flask! If you are vacuuming more than one flask of the same size, make sure to mark them. I use a piece of chalk to write a number corresponding to the wax weights - the chalk doesn't burn off in the kiln so its easy to distinguish when getting them quickly.

vacuum pt 2 - in the flask

This removes air that might have been trapped around the waxes and still in the investment from pouring - vacuum for approx 1.5 minutes - don't go over your 8 minutes.

It bubbles up and over like an ancient tar pit! The rings were pretty small in this flask, so I didn't fill it up all the way to reduce the bubbling over.

If there was a little bit of investment left over, after the time is up, pour the little bit on top. With vacuum casting, you need to leave at least 1/8 of an inch at the top to aid in the suction during the casting. if doing centrifugal casting, it can go over the top of the flask.

now it needs to sit for about 10 - 15 undisturbed until it sets up, then it needs to sit for about 1.5 - 2 hours before you can start the burnout process in the kiln.

bubbles again!

Once the flask is ready - it goes in the kiln and starts the burnout process. Burnout times are anywhere from 5 - 12 hours. The 5 hour burnout is perfect for just doing a couple of small flasks. Since I'm just a small time operation and didn't have the extra $900 to spend on an automated system, I have to manually adjust the temperatures to make sure the burnout process moves along smoothly. Hour 1: 300 degrees, Hour 2: 700 degrees, Hour 3 and 4: 1350 degrees, Hour 5: 1000 degrees - and hold.

in the kiln

Once the kiln has been holding at 1000 degrees for an hour, its time to start heating up the crucible and the metal. Make sure the crucible is red hot before adding the metal.

heating up the crucible

Once the metal has melted, give it a pinch of flux, a stir with a carbon stirring rod (and make sure to heat it up first or the metal will stick to it)

melting metal and stir

Note the hands free set up I made with some nice fire bricks!

makeshift extra hand

Now with my hands free, I can get the flask out of the kiln. Make sure to check to see that the pathways are clear - if burning out natural material, some ashes might be stuck. You can check it before you start melting the metal if you think there might be an issue you'd need to clear up, otherwise, a quick check on the way to the casting table is just fine. Also note the giant fireproof glove. I wish they made them in smaller sizes!

getting flask out

Place the flask upside down on the casting table (same as investing table, just make sure the toggle switch is flipped to "Cast") with the holes facing up. Turn on the vacuum pump.

turn on the pump

Position the crucible over the flask - make to always keep the torch on the metal. Removing the torch can cause oxygen to get in and that is bad.

starting to pour

As you are pouring, keep the torch on the metal and pour quickly. Pouring too slowly or moving the torch can cause the metal to freeze up and your casting won't work


Once the metal is poured, turn off the torch and the vacuum pump. Release the vacuum by flipping the toggle off of cast and move the flask away to let it cool. Wait until the metal is no longer red hot. I check it under a dark area of the table before quenching.

red hot in the flask

Now that the metal has cooled a bit and is no longer red (generally 2 - 5 minutes) it is time to quench. Make sure the flask is completely under the water. You want it to all be bubbling completely underneath the surface of the water. If you have used cast in place stones or some alloys you don't want to quench when the metal is hot. You need to let some completely cool up to an hour so as to not crack the stones or cause the metal to be shocked. Regular sterling is fine to quench after a few minutes.


These castings have been scrubbed clean of most of the investment, but there are still bits around the sprues and in the creases of the flower

another crusty casting

Soaking them in vinegar is a great inexpensive way to remove the investment and to clean the metal! I often leave them in there over night or longer depending on small detail areas. And its nice to have the metal clean already! It does take longer than an ultrasonic cleaner, but if you don't have the money or the space, vinegar works just fine.


And now its time to clean them up! removing the sprues, grinding, filing, sanding, adding texture to camouflage where the sprue had been, adding a patina, and the final polish all await your piece!

Saturday, March 29, 2008

Poppy Pendant

Poppy Pendant
Originally uploaded by bcyrjewelry
Aww, this sweet little pendant was a suggestion from a customer and I really like how it turned out. And I really like this photograph of it - the little center just peaking over the top of the petals.

I really like making flowers out of wax, particularly in the spring time - I love spring!! especially once the pollen is all over and done with!

My very first Jewelry and Metals teacher, Gary Noffke, was great in teaching me how to really work on waxes. I remember the rose that I made (it was pretty terrible) he yelled at me to go and look at real rose and take it apart and make each petal separately. And i think that is the part about making wax flowers the I like the most now, making all the individual petals and putting them all together, I feel like such a creater making a tiny little flower that will soon be in metal!!

And getting to do all the casting myself is extra nice.

Thursday, March 20, 2008

organic vine earrings - large

i just love these larger size of the organic vine earrings! I love the smaller ones too, but there is just something really special when the size gets bigger and bigger. One of the most recent pieces I thought of just keeping for myself!

Wednesday, March 19, 2008

14k and Sterling - Organic Stacking Rings

14k and sterling stackers
Originally uploaded by bcyrjewelry
These sweet little rings have come back. I had some gold and decided I needed to use it instead of just having it sit with my supplies. I love wearing these rings, all together or just by themselves!
With the price of gold going up and up and up - even this tiny ring is an investment! Great to think about really!

Available in my shop! Ask for your size if you don't see it!

Monday, March 17, 2008

wedding ring front page

wedding ring front page
Originally uploaded by bcyrjewelry
Yeah!!! So after the last set I made I decided to rephotograph them as the old color was one I was trying to fade out as a background color in my shop - so i changed it to white since they are wedding rings and I thought " hm... wouldn't it be great to have it in white for a wedding themed treasury... or front page even!" and it made it! I am so incredibly excited anytime I make it on the front page, but extra excited b/c I love these rings so much. And it makes it even more special to love making wedding rings. It wouldn't be any fun to not love making a symbol of love now would it? Also very interesting was that I was making a set today, two separate single ones, and working on designing a new set of wedding bands to offer! Love just must have been in the air! Thanks Etsy and DIY Bride for including my rings on the front page and in the Storque Article!

Friday, March 14, 2008

organic vine ring - medium w/ taper

This was one of three rings I made for someone to chose from - I think this is my favorite! All fused and hammered argentium sterling silver. I haven't made any of the rings in a long time and I'm hoping to get back in to making them!

Thursday, March 13, 2008

Tree Bark Wedding Ring Set

wedding ring set
Originally uploaded by bcyrjewelry
I love this texture! I started doing variations of it when I was still in school and 6 years later I still love it! After the first commission to do a set of wedding bands, I decided they would make a great addition of made to order pieces in my shop. This is the most recent pair and I'm loving them more than ever! I think its best to put lots of love into wedding rings - and these are full of it! They can be done in yellow or white gold as well.

Tuesday, March 11, 2008

Custom Nebula Ring - silver w/ carneilan

I made several of these last year and then like usual don't really stick to making one style. I'd like to come back to making them as I love how they turn out! the organic twist and turn of the fused and hammered "ribbon" - and I love carnelian with silver, especially silver w/ a bit of patina.

They are quite challenging as well, as every bit is fused, no soldering at all. The band is fused and hammered, the bezel is fused to the backplate and then those two pieces are fused together. Then the ribbon of the two fused wires is made and fused to the back of the ring - it all gets tumbled and then the stone is set - and then the ribbon is formed over top of the stone. I was super happy with how this one turned out, especially because it was a custom piece!

Monday, March 10, 2008

vine and leaf ring

vine and leaf ring
Originally uploaded by bcyrjewelry
my newest favorite piece!! I started making these sweet little rings b/c I like wearing little rings and realized that I usually just make larger rings! I've been doing vine and leaf motif rings for years and it was only natural to have a little tiny vine and leaf ring! I wear one all the time - so tiny it doesn't get in my way, so I just never take it off.

Its handmade in wax and cast in sterling silver - all in my studio :) Each one is unique, not from a mold, I like them to all be a tiny bit different.